Not everything you read online is good advice.  While there’s lots of helpful tips out there there’s also an overwhelming amount of misinformation coming from people with no expertise that drowns them out.  And menswear is no different. In 2025, anyone can put on an ill-fitting suit, make a lot of content, get some followers and suddenly they’re an expert on tailoring.  And 90% of them are full of it.  Which is incredibly frustrating for me as a professional clothier AND you as a consumer because while they may be coming from a good place, their research is lacking and their views are confusing and oxymoronic. So today I implore you, log off your Instagram, close your Tiktok, and let your friendly neighborhood clothier break down how to master your suit fit in 2025. 

If I’ve ever fit you for a suit you’ve probably heard me say, “Let’s start from the top.” Because getting the top right is the most important fit aspect in a jacket.  Everything else (sleeves, coat waist, seat etc) a good tailor can alter.  So when you’re trying on a coat for the first time, focus on these four areas to determine if it’s a good fit.

Shoulders- The shoulders should hug your own and end right where your shoulders do naturally,  a poorly fitting jacket will have the dreaded “shoulder divots”  which are all too common on the red carpet. 

Collar- In terms of the collar,  it should gently hug your neck without any excessive gapping, and lay cleanly across your back. 

Chest-  While a tailor can reduce and sculpt the chest, they cannot make it bigger so if your lapels are popping open like Bruce Banner mid Hulk transformation you might want to size up. 

Length-  A coat can be shorted slightly, but not lengthened.  Like a good lawyer you want your jacket to do one thing,  cover your a$&.

Trousers are pretty simple, and if you nail these two aspects, once again your tailor can handle the rest.

Hips-  Trousers that fit your hips properly should have pockets that lay clean without flaring out, while not having any excess/ drooping fabric on  the sides or back. 

Rise- The distance from your crotch to the top of your waistband.  If they’re too high you’re getting a wedgie, too low then you’re MC Hammer, both are inadvisable.

“BUT DAVE!” you might shout into these pages, “What if I constantly struggle with fit issues and feel like I can never find anything that works for me?” Well, dear readers, let’s dive into why becoming a “custom guy” is your best bet.

If you frequently encounter major fit problems, you essentially have two choices:

1. Buy an off-the-rack suit and face the daunting task of extensive alterations. This can end up costing you a fortune—think about the money spent on the suit itself, plus all the tailoring required to make it fit.
2. Go custom! For less than the combined cost of an off-the-rack suit and its alterations, you can have a suit made to your unique measurements and preferences right from the start. Taking your specific fit issues into account, creating a unique pattern which saves you—and your tailor—time and frustration.

In short, investing in a custom suit means you’ll get a perfect fit without the headache of constant adjustments. Plus, you’ll have a garment that truly reflects your style!